Egg price hikes drive Coloradans to raise backyard chickens

At the Fleischer Family Farm in Lakewood, fresh eggs are among the fastest sellers at the Saturday market.

The eggs simply taste better compared to ones that are factory-farmed, according to Paul Fleischer, who runs the business with his wife, Chelsie. The eggs are more flavorful, the yolks are a deeper yellow, and many who have made the switch to pasture-raised notice the fluffier texture of the eggs when they’re cooked.

“There’s also some sort of inherently positive feeling that you get from supporting a local farmer or even raising them on your own,” Fleischer said.

Egg lovers may have extra motivation to shop local these days. Over the past few years, a deadly strain of bird flu has disrupted the commercial U.S. egg supply, sending prices soaring — at one point by as much as 49% in a year. In addition, the cage-free egg law and general inflation contributed to the hike. While grocery stores imposed limits on the number of eggs customers could buy, shelves went bare, and some restaurants tacked on surcharges for egg-based dishes.

Prices have recently eased. A dozen Grade A large eggs averaged $5.12 in April, down from $6.23 in March, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. Still, that’s significantly higher than the $1.63 average in May 2022.

In the meantime, interest in local eggs — and local food, in general — has grown. Sometimes, Fleischer said, that means shopping at a nearby farmers market. Other times, it means setting up a coop just steps from your kitchen.

“I feel like there’s a big movement and interest in people wanting to go back to the land and provide for themselves,” he said.

To help meet that demand, Fleischer, a former teacher, has been leading “Backyard Chicken Keeping 101” classes, which frequently sell out as interest continues to trend upward. The class covers chicken basics, and everything from coop preparation to food, supplements and treats, choosing the right bird, and compliance with your local municipalities.

It’s tricky to pin down exact numbers on backyard chicken keeping, but here’s a surprising stat: About 11 million U.S. households have backyard chickens, and 8 million consider them pets, according to the latest figures from the American Pet Products Association. That’s a big jump from 2018, when just 5.8 million households had chickens in their yards.

While many people are raising hens to collect their eggs — and maybe generously sharing with friends and neighbors — farm-fresh options are also available at local farmers markets and roadside stands. In Colorado, small-scale flock owners can sell up to 250 dozen eggs per month, as long as they meet the state’s handling and labeling requirements, per the Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment. No license is needed if you’re selling eggs directly to the end consumer. But if you’re hoping to stock a restaurant or grocery store, you’ll need an egg producer and dealer license.

After the pandemic, Lakewood resident Elaine Harper and her family decided to get more self-sufficient, starting by expanding their garden. She took one of Fleischer’s chicken classes in May 2023, and by the following February, their backyard had four chickens. Another two joined that summer.

Her family collects between four to six eggs a day, which is enough for their breakfast sandwiches on sourdough, pancakes, baked goods (she swears the eggs make the best brownies) and more. Beyond her family of four, Harper is able to share the bounty with her neighbors and parents, too.

“You could blindfold test me and I’d know which is which,” Harper says of her home-laid eggs versus store-bought.