Metro Denver’s food scene has never been as vibrant as it is today, something The Denver Post’s food writers and the rest of the staff of The Know understand. That’s why we’re out on the town as much as possible. Each month, we’ll provide you with recommendations about a few of the dishes we tried over the previous weeks. Want to hear about them early? Subscribe to the Stuffed newsletter, where we introduce one of these dishes every Wednesday.
Yaqui Tacos, Tequila, Mezcal
When I asked for a menu recommendation at Yaqui Tacos, the man behind the register didn’t hesitate for a second. The quesa birria tacos, he said, and he was right. Rich, gooey and encased in crisp but pliable red shells, the quesa birria tacos — they come with melted cheese, cilantro, onions and consomme for dipping — were everything I could have hoped for, and they disappeared fast.
Smartly decorated and with friendly service, this spot opened in the late fall on East Colfax Avenue, and the menu takes inspiration from the cuisine of the Sonoron Desert region of northern Mexico and southern Arizona — “inspired” by Sonoran soul food, as the menu says. You’ll also find burritos, tortas, Sonoran hot dogs, empanadas and more, along with a wide variety of tequilas, mezcal and other alcoholic beverages.
5922 E. Colfax Ave., Denver; instagram.com/yaquitacostequilamezcal
Pony Up
Pony Up is one of those places where everyone should feel at home. It’s a bar’s bar and a bar-industry bar. But Pony Up also has the unusual distinction of specializing in French dip sandwiches — gooey, gleeful creations that end up all over your mouth, fingers and table.
We went for the Thanksgiving Turkey Dip ($18) first, which comes with turkey, pork sausage stuffing and cranberry mayo with a side of sage gravy. I thought it needed more cranberry and less sage. Next up, we tried the Saigon ($18) and were smitten. This unusual take on a banh mi includes garlic pork, cilantro, basil, jalapeno and spicy mayo — all dunked in a pho broth. It hit every note. The seasoning was perfect, the veggies were explosive, and the spiciness melded with the pho broth to give the sandwich a seamless range of flavor.
1808 Blake St., Denver; ponyupdenver.com
The Cherry Tomato
First things first. One of my adult kids works at The Cherry Tomato, so I have a clear conflict of interest here. That being said, this Park Hill neighborhood restaurant’s seasonal Chicken Riggies dish is a banger. Made with tomato basil cream sauce, al dente rigatoni noodles, sweet and spicy cherry peppers, poblano peppers and sauteed chicken, the meal will satisfy your cravings for both Italian food and for something really spicy. A specialty of upstate New York (something I just learned this week) and Utica in particular, chicken riggies have many variations, but the one at the Cherry Tomato tops my list for its richness and depth.
4645 E. 23rd Ave. Denver; cherrytomatodenver.com
Mead St. Provisions
I hadn’t been to the business that was formerly called Mead St. Station in 25 years, so when I realized it had changed from a dark tavern to a sunny deli, I figured I should check it out. And I wish I’d done so sooner. The sandwich lineup at what is now called Mead St. Provisions is stellar, offering enormous examples of sandwichery at its finest.
I picked The Carroll Gardens (named for a Brooklyn neighborhood), which comes with oven-roasted turkey, soppressata, hand-spun mozzarella, hot cherry peppers, garlic aioli, balsamic glaze and arugula on ciabatta bread. A monster at just $15, it’s the kind of sandwich you have to squeeze together with both hands so you can fit it in your maw. But when you do, the garlic aioli spills out, along with some of the shredded turkey, so you scoop it up with your finger and smash it back onto a piece of bread. It was that good.
3625 W. 32nd Ave., Denver; meadstdenver.com
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